Electrolux Cooktops

One surface, three technologies

A cooktop sits in the countertop on its own, separate from the oven, and the lineup mixes two very different technologies. Induction cooktops use electricity to create a field that heats the pan, so the glass surface itself stays much cooler than a radiant element. A gas cooktop uses burners, igniters and a gas valve. They share a counter cutout, but almost nothing else in how they fail.

The models we cover:

• ECCI3068AS: induction, 30 inch
• ECCI3668AS: induction, 36 inch
• ECCG3668AS: gas, 36 inch
• EW30GC60IS: cooktop, 30 inch

The prefix helps: ECCI is induction, ECCG is gas. The EW30GC60IS is listed here as a 30-inch cooktop, so confirm what you have on the label.

Where to read the model number

On a built-in cooktop the label is on the underside, which usually means it is hidden once the cooktop is installed. Look in the cabinet below for a data tag, or check the paperwork from the installation. If neither is available, send a photo of the whole cooktop surface and the control layout and we will narrow it down at the visit.

Complaints and what they usually mean

One induction zone will not heat or only runs weakly

Induction hardware has a coil, a power electronics section and a temperature sensor for each zone, and a failure in any of those looks like a weak or absent zone. Our pages on an induction zone that runs weak and on a pan not detected on one zone cover the difference between a cookware problem and a hardware one.

Controls act strange after cleaning

Touch controls can misread when liquid sits on the glass or a cleaner has left a film. If the panel only misbehaves after wiping, the article on touch controls after cleaning is a good first stop.

Gas burner clicks or fails to catch

On the gas model, a dirty burner head, a misplaced cap or a weak igniter are the usual suspects. A burner that never lights is a reason to shut it off, not to keep trying.

Cooktop beeps or shuts off

Induction units protect themselves when something goes wrong with heat or supply, then display a number. That number is where the diagnosis begins.

Codes on induction models

Induction cooktops report two-digit numbers, and they are mostly about the side of the cooktop or the specific zone. A sample:

• 11: jammed key
• 21: LIN bus error, no communication or shorted bus
• 51 to 55: inductor temperature sensor break, by zone
• 61 to 65: inductor temperature sensor too hot, by zone
• 30: AC input voltage too high; 35: too low
• E2: fault in the induction cooktop LED lighting

The complete list is in our error code library. The left-side and right-side numbers differ, so write down the exact digits and which zone was in use.

What you can safely check

• Look at the breaker. A cooktop usually has its own circuit.
• Wipe the glass or burner area dry and clear anything resting on the controls.
• For induction, try a pan with a flat, magnetic bottom that fits the ring marking.
• On gas, check that the shutoff valve is open, the caps are seated and no spill covers the igniter.
• Perform one controlled power reset, then note the display.

Do not lift the cooktop out, loosen gas fittings or use a meter on the supply. A gas smell means leave the house, avoid switches and call the utility or 911 from outside; burning smell or sparks means breaker off.

Book a visit

When the checks stop helping, Electrolux cooktop repair explains how we diagnose, estimate in writing and wait for your approval. If the cooktop is part of a combined stove, see the range guide too.

Frequently asked questions